Sitka -- Chores and Sightseeing

Wednesday June 20 - Monday June 25

We arrived in Sitka last week and found moorage at Thomsen Harbor.

Reprovisioning (Urs is in the engine room)

The first day was taken up with provisioning, oil change and various boat maintenance items. We went to Radio Shack and bought a little iPod shuffle. Now I can listen to my audio books again!

St Michael's Cathedral

Eagles on St Michael's Cathedral

The Russians chose Sitka for the capital of Russian America in 1808 after several years of bloody struggle with the Tlingit, the fierce local native people. Their influence is still here. St Michael’s Russian Orthodox Cathedral is at the center of the town; the cathedral’s tower is a favorite spot for eagles! The Bishop’s house was built in the late 1840's for the very tolerant and knowledgable bishop. US Parks has beautifully restored it, making sure that the wallpaper, furniture, and tableware are as historically accurate as possible. The Russian cemetery is still in use; modern gravestones are in English, but some of the older ones are in Russian.

Russian Double Eagle on City Pole

Skunk Cabbage Rings Head of New Pole

Totem poles are in town parks showing the influence of the Tlingits. We visited the Totem Pole Park. As in other places, the old poles are inside; copies are outside along a trail in the forest. One of the poles told a tale about the origin of mosquitoes. After killing his wife, a man hid in the forest and killed anyone who came by. Finally, one day another man trapped and burned him. The ashes blew away and became mosquitoes. I guess terrorism is not new. The museum offers space for local artists. We talked with a young carver, who was very proud of the bowl that he was working on. We also chatted with two older men who were basket weaving.

Aleut Visored Hat and Fish-Skin Clothing

Helmet worn by Katlian

We spent two hours at the historical museum. Lots of artifacts which were gathered from Alaskan native populations the 1800's. We learned that the Alaskan Tlingit wore helmets and body armor in battle and we saw the helmet that the leader Katlian wore in the final battle against the Russians. We had never heard before about helmets and body armour being worn by BC natives. We also learned that the Aleuts and other hunters of water mammals wore visored hats to protect them from ocean spray and glare. They also stitched fish skins together for light rain gear; where the fins were cut, they inserted skin of another fish for variety of texture and color.



Tootsie, a Handicapped Saw-Whet Owl

Handicapped Eagle

 We walked to the Alaskan Raptor Rehabilitation Center. Saw the flight training hall where the recovering birds learn to fly again. Saw many birds whose injuries were too severe to be released.

People are very friendly. Even in the busy harbor, where boats leave and return at all hours, people stop to chat. When the woman at the post office outlet said I’d have to go to the main post office (miles out of town) to mail a package to Canada, the woman behind me offered to drive me out there and back to anywhere I wanted to go!

Mount Edgecomb and Raven Song in Glorious Sun

An enthusiastic saleswoman told us about Saint Lazaria Island, a bird sanctuary where puffins breed. So the next day of calm weather, we untied the lines and headed out. It was fantastic. Lots of puffins and murres close to the boat. Apparently several varieties of alcids (e.g., puffins, murres, murrelets, etc) will fly and flock together. Puffins fly slower than the other alcids, so are often at the front of the formation to keep everyone together. We put down the anchor, took hundreds of pictures, and had lunch before heading back. I love puffins.

Puffin Taking Off

The weather can change in minutes. We left one morning in glorious warm sun wearing shorts and sandals; we were freezing when we returned.

Tomorrow we head north toward Pelican Cove. We plan to stay the first night in Kalinin Bay. At Pelican Cove, we will try to get a permit to stay a week in Glacier Bay. Michael and Nancy will join us there.

Puffins

Puffin