Ketchikan

Saturday May 19 – Tuesday May 22, 2012

Saturday, the motor was running at 7 AM and we headed out into Dixon Entrance, which separates BC from Alaska. There was a 2-foot swell.  Mostly, our course was at a 45-degree angle to the waves; however, when it was parallel, Raven Song rolled along with the swells, to the displeasure of the crew.  We entered Ketchikan after 8 hours in sunshine and strong wind toward the end of the day.

Raven Song among fish boats

Getting into our slip was a bit of a problem.   We discovered that there was already a boat in the slip the harbour master had assigned to us.    The strong wind made it hard to maneuver Raven Song, but Urs managed to turn her around in the narrow passage way.  We tied up at the second assigned slip; the tide and wind moved us away from the dock.  So Urs had to back out and try again.  Then we discovered that the slip had no electricity, so had to back out and go into another slip among fishing boats that dwarf Raven Song!   A very nice customs officer cleared us easily.

Cruise Ships at Ketchikan (tallest mast is on left is Raven Song

The next few days were filled with chores:  made three trips to the grocery store, bought a cell local phone (there is no cooperation between Canadian and US phone companies), got a fishing license (don’t ask how much it cost), etc.  We treated ourselves to a halibut meal in a restaurant on a nearby hill.

And we went sightseeing.  Ketchikan seems to survive on fishing and tourism.  The importance of fishing is clear from the abundance of enormous, well-maintained boats.  The importance of tourism is clear when the cruise ships arrive, up to three a day.  Passengers poured out onto what had been quiet streets.  Officials suddenly appeared with stop signs making sure pedestrians didn’t get run over or cause traffic jams.   The shops that had been closed were suddenly inviting everyone in for a free gift or a sample of reindeer sausage or salmon.  Tour operators popped up and started hawking their itineraries.  I heard one man say that 4800 passengers visited one totem park this morning!!  We visited two different totem park this morning and could barely find a couple of seconds to take a photo.



There are three totem parks near Ketchikan.  In the 1930’s, people started to recognize the art in the totem carvings and paintings.   Over the next two decades, they moved them to museums and started carving replicas.  Three native groups are represented:  Haida,  Tlingit, Tsimshian.

Tomorrow, we plan to untie our lines, fill up diesel, and head to Prince of Wales Island, known locally as POW!!


Big House at Saxman Totem Park

Totem at Saxman Totem Park